Tuesday, June 30, 2009
Monday, June 22, 2009
back when i was a young thing, skateboarders used to argue about whether a given move had integrity, whether it was communicating something and genuinely challenging, or whether it was just a cheap, superficial show off move, which they would deride as a "circus trick." i thought about that when i saw this video below. the landing is the most impressive part for me, and the timing is unreal, but the flip in and of itself amazes me less than the reentry. it also got me thinking about where i surfed on saturday, at puerto viejo, and how a dolphin popped up out of the water and dropped in on me just as i was paddling for an 8 foot wave. he was so close to me, cruising head on at me on a big, powerful wave, that i shouted "oh my god!" -- but he was a good enough swimmer to avoid me. he then circled back and surfaced next to me and blew water out of his blow hole, as if to say hi. dolphins are the coolest creatures on earth, and they do back flips too, which they are expected to do, unlike the guy in the video below.
Monday, June 15, 2009
the photo in the chicama post below, i forgot to say, is of me. but it doesn't do the feeling justice. here's a video that captures the feeling of riding a crazy wave better than any i've seen... (via 70percent and quality peoples)
Sunday, June 14, 2009
just back from chicama today after a trip with an old friend. we waited for 4 or 5 days for chicama to break well, surfing spots nearby, and then popped over for one good day there. it's the longest left in the world and it really is true that your legs tire while riding the wave that never seems to end.