Monday, December 27, 2010

la frontera

surfed la frontera on friday, a joyous day with only a couple other people in the water, a swift but smooth entry on a wave that is often times too fast and heavy. the size was nice and for the first time in three months i got into a deep groove and felt wave after wave coming to me, nailing my drop ins and going off to the races. i bumped into ernesto b. that day, nearly a year after he introduced me to the wave. thanks for the good vibes!