Friday, October 22, 2010
back in the saddle...
surfed today for the first time in a month after being far away from the ocean getting whipped like a rented mule. pumping swell has been hitting peru for two or three days now and there is a big championship going on in Punta Hermosa. i surfed triangulo today to ease my way back into the water. needless to say, i felt weak and didn't have much power when i paddled. the water also felt cold. enough of me. i was just reading julio adler today. i'm more convinced than ever that he's probably one of the best people out there writing about surfing and his prose drips style. smart and insightful without being full of all kinds of macho, U.S.-style football metaphors...
Monday, October 4, 2010
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