Tuesday, July 14, 2009
nice waves this morning at punta roquitas, glassy and windless, with 5 foot waves that required you to pump like mad to make it through the sections. a nice little challenge. it can be a very, very fun break. especially on a fish that allows you to take off just a bit earlier than would be possible on a thruster. it can also be a tricky break, with quick close outs that hurt unless you pick your waves carefully. i thought today that lima should really make a big push to clean up the bay, and maybe even move some rocks around on the shallow, rocky floor to improve the shape of the waves. peru has an important surfing culture, but it could be bigger and deeper, it seems.