surfed la frontera on friday, a joyous day with only a couple other people in the water, a swift but smooth entry on a wave that is often times too fast and heavy. the size was nice and for the first time in three months i got into a deep groove and felt wave after wave coming to me, nailing my drop ins and going off to the races. i bumped into ernesto b. that day, nearly a year after he introduced me to the wave. thanks for the good vibes!
dude...merry chrimbo. Where is La Frontera? What's going down at Inkawaves, long time no posting...keep the faith sensei
ReplyDeletela frontera is between pulpos and arica. it's just off the spit of rocks, mon frere...
ReplyDeletebanzai!