Tuesday, March 23, 2010
fill it to the brim
i woke up today at 2:30 a.m., unable to control my excitement over the swell charts, which all showed 9 foot waves in lima. that means that el triangulo, a finicky break that rarely goes off, would be working. and when it works, it is bliss. it's the glassiest break i've ever seen, and looks like a reflection pond with a perfect wave running through it. i spent three hours making a big breakfast and reading before i went out in the dark. trouble is, when i got there, the waves were horseshit and even places that normally work were weak and gutless. so i turned around and went home, hoping to save my energy for when the swell finally hits, if it does.
thank god for fine organic arabica from oxapampa. this is the most chocolatey bag of coffee i've ever had...