Thursday, March 11, 2010

welcome back!

woke up at 4:30 a.m. today to surf south of lima. it was my first session since returning from aching chile. sure was nice to wash away all the stress from the quake and just focus on waves. we surfed for three hours. good waves, nice drops, a fair amount of punch on some waves. not as wally as i'd like, but excellent water temperature. i tried a friend's tiny thruster for the last 45 minutes or so, and enjoyed taking off late on it and changing direction on a dime. fun stuff.

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