thanks to qpeeps for this. reminds me of trying to leave the water at herradura, which requires loads of patience, finding the sweet spot, and paddling like hell. i have destroyed the points of two boards there and got loads of dings...
Thursday, November 25, 2010
Monday, November 8, 2010
more dirt on the peru-australian beef!
here in el comercio you can read the closest the peruvian press has come to talking about the rock-throwing peruvian hooligans who attacked members of australia's surf team the other weekend at the ISA games. or, maybe you can't. this story has mulanovich and villaran basically defending tough tactics in the water (blocking a competitor to prevent him from catching a wave so that members of the peru team would advance to the next round) but not talking about what happened afterwards. the australian surfer complained, there was some pushing in the water and then, when the australian came ashore, a bunch of peruvian fans threw rocks at him. classy! australia has said it won't send its junior team here next here for the world's, and other coaches have raised a stink. i say this: if you can't control your own fans you need to tell them to go home. keep in mind that this attack happened on one of the most expensive beaches in the whole country. it is full of rich people. what's this say about the people who live there?
Thursday, November 4, 2010
classy peruvians!
here is a link to the other story from the ISA world championship that wasn't told. it's about how peru's team blocked an australian from catching waves and how the local crowd threw rocks at the australian (even though he was the victim. i guess he didn't have the right to complain about being in the water with a rude sport). of course there were no decent security guards or police on hand to protect anybody when he was hit in the head by rocks. of course all local press coverage was all about the glory, even though there was lots of second guessing the judges. on sunday i was in the water, somebody paddled in front of me while i was going for a wave, our leashes got tangled and me, being the nice guy, volunteered to take off my leash to untangle us. truth be told, the guy who's fault it was didn't say thanks and didn't apologize. he just silently paddled away. classy! i've also seen peruvian surfers routinely mistreat parking lot attendants just because it makes them feel good to beat up on people. classy!
Friday, October 22, 2010
back in the saddle...
surfed today for the first time in a month after being far away from the ocean getting whipped like a rented mule. pumping swell has been hitting peru for two or three days now and there is a big championship going on in Punta Hermosa. i surfed triangulo today to ease my way back into the water. needless to say, i felt weak and didn't have much power when i paddled. the water also felt cold. enough of me. i was just reading julio adler today. i'm more convinced than ever that he's probably one of the best people out there writing about surfing and his prose drips style. smart and insightful without being full of all kinds of macho, U.S.-style football metaphors...
Monday, October 4, 2010
Tuesday, September 14, 2010
a new secret wave near lima!
i don't know the exact whereabouts of this wave, but a friend with the initials DM says it's buenazo!
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