Monday, December 14, 2009
a bit of longboarding on saturday here in lima. i was obsessed with hanging ten and sort of neglected to carve, but had a good time walking the plank as it were. a few times i walked right off the board. sunday had big and heavy waves and punta rocas, where we all went through the washing machine a few times and the waves were fast and fierce... my fish, i should add, had no trouble even on the more powerful waves -- in part i think because the wave is fairly fat even when it's big. more and more i'm thinking that fish only don't work in the most hollow of waves and super hollow waves just aren't that common.