Monday, April 19, 2010

neglected spot or famous spot?

i surfed saturday at a neglected wave in punta hermosa, one that years ago had a nice tube, then fell apart, and more recently is reforming. i surfed with two other guys. it was great: a drop that can be tricky, a short paddle, and a wall that is steep enough to put you in those jams where you ask "should I pump down the line to make the section, or do I have enough time to make some turns?" I then went to have lunch overlooking caballeros and ate fish soup while watching 40 people crawl over each other for waves, which were really good. sunday was puerto viejo, a bit crowded but mostly manageable. the take off can be awfully messy and fat, so i sat a bit on the inside and picked off some nice waves. the last one was one of those classic walls at puerto viejo, where you just barely make it through a series of sections in a kind of perfect rhythm, throwing a turn, then pumping, repeating...

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