back in the water

surfed this morning for the first time in two weeks. lots of big, mushy, blown out, fat waves. it took me an hour to catch a good wave, which lasted a long time and felt nice but a bit slow on my 7'2" beater that weighs a ton. i'll take out a lighter board next time that a friend left with me. i'd come back to lima thinking i could pick up my new board, and my repaired fish, which lost two fins, but my shaper is sort of missing in action. so patience is required.