Thursday, May 21, 2009

back in the water

surfed this morning for the first time in two weeks. lots of big, mushy, blown out, fat waves. it took me an hour to catch a good wave, which lasted a long time and felt nice but a bit slow on my 7'2" beater that weighs a ton. i'll take out a lighter board next time that a friend left with me. i'd come back to lima thinking i could pick up my new board, and my repaired fish, which lost two fins, but my shaper is sort of missing in action. so patience is required.

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