the last two times i went out in lima i was so tired of the fat waves that i vowed to ride my longboard on the next outing, which is what i did today. three nice long rides, one that took me all the way to shore on faces that went on forever. on my third wave i finally figured out how to get around a section that fell in front of me the previous two times. good cruisin' fun. but i really did feel like i was driving a bus. i've heard people say that riding a longboard is about being on top of the wave, whereas a short board puts you in the wave. i couldn't agree more. i hadn't ridden my longboard in at least six months, and it felt funny. it's just a whole different world.
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