Thursday, May 28, 2009
steep to fat in nothing flat
surfed again at punta rocas yesterday afternoon. like saturday and sunday, it was 6 feet, but it was very tough to catch a wave. the takeoffs were super steep, and then fattened out almost immediately, becoming so fat you couldn't hitch rides or stay up once you had popped up. the only difference from saturday, i think, was that the tide was a foot or two higher, so the waves couldn't wall up as nicely. and i went out on a much floatier board. on saturday i used a skinny 6'8" thruster, which i was afraid wouldn't float me, and i caught plenty of waves. on wednesday, i went out on a fish of the same length which is extremely wide and barely caught anything. nature is fickle.