Thursday, April 23, 2009
glassy and big
this morning was smooth gliding and glassy. takeoffs were especially slow at pampilla because it was high tide, but the 8.5 foot waves gave you lots of space to play on. it was a wee bit early for hard charging and i would have gone to a faster wave if i weren't alone. but it was fun. once you got up you could pick up nice amounts of speed. twice i cut back thinking i needed to get near the whitewater, only to end up not making it through the next section. i should have just gone down the line, but it wasn't walling up enough to convince me. no complaints. i'd really like to start surfing herradura in the morning, but it only works when it's big and it's not a place you can surf alone.