Tuesday, April 14, 2009

row that boat

hollow 5 foot waves and few people today at punta roquitas. summer officially ends here after easter and, thankfully, lots of people in peru only surf in the summer because they think it's too cold in winter. i feel like i've got my rhythm back after being beat up in chilean surf. lots of fun takeoffs, a backside ride in which i focused on tucking my ass under me, forcing myself to crouch down by holding a rail and making faster, more frequent cut backs. i was so elated with that backside ride that as it closed out i turned my board straight into the wave and launched myself into one of those comical jumps that leave you upside down. one left that i caught, which took me all the way to the beach, was pure joy. it walled up nicely, didn't close out too fast and, just as a section was about to fall, i would stick my hand into the wall and row myself along it to get past the crumbling section. physics laws would probably say i was doing myself a disservice, but it felt like lots of fun. it's hard to get that kind of intimacy with a wave.

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