sunset session

a nice, peaceful sunset session at caballeros yesterday. fairly high frequency sets, but a bit mushy for the first 45 minutes. just as the sun was setting the next swell started arriving. it is producing 8.5 foot waves in peru right now. it was high tide at caballeros, so the take off spot furthest out was fat, along with the section that links it to the other take off spot on the shoulder. but i realized that if you take off on the shoulder, you can pretty much just go down the line and not worry so much about trying to stay on the edge of the whitewater to generate speed. so lots of fun. and here's a link to a revolutionary board builder, full of the best of what the californian spirit is all about. i think surfing without fins would be akin to riding super hard skate wheels on a masonite ramp. or a slip and slide. finless boards