punta hermosa

a great, long day of surfing today at punta hermosa. clear skies, nicely shaped waves and dozens of takeoffs. i had trouble making it around some sections, but managed to get through others, and carved up onto several big walls that left me hooting in joy. here are two photos, the first of the paddle out to caballeros from a rocky shore that is also the place to jump in to paddle to senoritas. the second is of the shaping bay at quiver boards, where i am going to get a new board done that is a bit shorter and thinner and easier to duck dive in the winter...