Wednesday, April 8, 2009


i surfed senoritas this morning, and it was especially tricky, with what seemed to be a low tide, and waves hitting from the north and south that made it difficult to figure out where to sit while the sets rolled in. i was thrown into the whirlpool three times, and found myself having to duck dive too often given that my board is fairly wide. i'm going to start using a friends thruster when i go out there. life is much calmer when you have an easy board to duck dive. on the first few waves, i had either sloppy takeoffs or sloppy pop ups, which was frustrating, but the last few i had that heavenly feeling where you take off on plenty of smooth water, make a nice clean pop up and sense throughout the whole process like you have all the time and space in the world to get your groove on. those fleeting moments made all the suffering worthwhile.

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