Tuesday, March 17, 2009
back in the saddle
i surfed punta roquitas this morning. glassy and 4.5 foot waves. one of those days at punta roquitas where you make the short paddle, chill out, and then do two quick strokes to get into the wave. i still can't believe how easily my board can catch junk waves, and how it performs so well in big waves too. it's a great board. today was my first time in the water since i got stitches and went on vacation. it felt great. i even managed to ignore the two surf schools whose students took up all the parking spaces, flooded the best peak and made hooting sounds while wearing color coded vests. i just hung out by the jetty and tried to focus on the water. the concentration surfing requires is akin to motorcycling, and if you focus you can work your way into a zone where all the tasks you have to do that are bouncing around in your head disappear.