Wednesday, March 25, 2009


i was super sore this morning, after a long session yesterday at caballeros, which has a loooooooooooong paddle. still, i trundled down to the costa verde and after sitting in my car for 10 minutes finally decided to ignore my aching body and go into the water at pampilla. it was mostly empty and good waves were only arriving every three minutes or so, but just as i was telling myself that the break is boring a big walled up mass of water arrived and gave me a challenge. i realized that i've been so sore lately because i haven't been stretching and pulled my right hamstring last week, and that's been making it tougher for me drive down and try to ride up the face to the lip and then drop back in. my turns have been weak for the past few days, so i've promised that i'll stretch more and to alter my stance. photos are few these days because the wife is traveling with the camera.

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