Monday, March 30, 2009

punta rocas

two surf sessions on saturday, with a long snooze in my car between the morning and afternoon sessions. the nap was induced by creamy fish soup that i always buy at a shack in front of caballeros for all of five soles. it's delicious, and nutritious! the computer models said surf was 7 foot, but it felt more like 4.5 feet, except where we went for the second session, a place called punta rocas. literally, rocky point. it was jacking up big. it's a legendary break, and the drop in is fast and furious. it walls up quickly like senoritas, but has two spots where it breaks and if you get caught on the inside, it takes herculean strength to get back out and you have to duck dive every three seconds because you are dealing with two different waves hitting you. that's why, i think, not many people surf it. i got caught once on the inside on saturday, and had to paddle like crazy to get out. while i was out there, i came to the conclusion that you need a small, light board for punta rocas that is easy to duck dive, unlike my board, which is too wide and floaty. on a big day, that place would be exhausting. here's a clip of a competition there last year...

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