Friday, March 27, 2009
i surfed for just a half hour this morning at pampilla, which was supposedly 7.5 feet. maybe, but it's such a slow wave, with such an obtuse angle, that you'd have more fun on a hollow wave that's 3 feet tall. it's fine when it's empty, but today every wanker in lima was out there, including a guy on a 10 foot foam board who refused to wait his turn and just caught everything 30 yards before people on smaller, real boards. what a wanker! him and the boogey borders, who i've noticed compensate for their inferiority complexes by wearing thick gold and silver chains, in the water! they don't take them off, apparently that would leave them feeling emasculated. i'm coming to the realization that i need to go south of lima, every day, if i want to catch real waves.