Sunday, March 22, 2009

the swell has arrived

five surfing sessions in the last three days. the swell that we were waiting for finally arrived today, just as we were leaving the water. monday should be good. caballeros was lots of fun on saturday. but it was so foggy that you couldn't see the line up when you were paddling out, and after i caught one wave i almost paddled over to senoritas, a break on the other side of the cove. i had to stop and listen for voices to orient myself and figure out where to head. we ate fish soup with aji and lime afterwards for all of five soles. delicious. cerro azul was flat saturday, so we went up to puerto viejo, which was working well, but i still find it to be very difficult. today we checked out herradura, which was breaking nicely. it's a tough break. one that i haven't tried yet, but plan to in a few months. some guys out there were making the challenging drop with ease, but we saw another guy who went over the falls three times in front of us, repeatedly dropping in too late. here's a video of the place.

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