Tuesday, March 24, 2009


one of only two people in the water today at caballeros, then two more guys showed up at 7 a.m. after i'd been in the water an hour. beautiful morning though the waves sat down a bit today and were fat and gutless, not the 7 foot rollercoasters promised by the models. a few big ones landed, and sometimes closed out quickly. it's still a break i'm getting used to and can be quite tempermental. sometimes, if you cut back into the core of the wave, you lose all your power, but if you just point down the line you gain speed. i stopped at the toll both afterwards and nearly bought a fried pork sandwich with sweet potato from two ladies selling breakfast to the mototaxi drivers, but i held off. not because of worries about my stomach, but because i figured i should save my money for lunch, which was spectacular. the appetizer was grilled baby octopus. better tasting than the finest argentine steak, and less chewy too.

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