soccer and surfing

this morning, i surfed with nick, an old soccer buddy from highschool. he surfed a lot in college and today we went surfing for the first time together. nice waves, barely anybody in the water at punta roquitas and good vibes. on the last wave, i dropped in next to him and hooted like a madman. i never thought 18 years ago that we'd be surfing together in lima. certainly not at 6 a.m. more to come this weekend. when we got out of the water, i ran into a friend of mine, who told me that a friend of his, g., who i've met once, had just had surgery to put a metal plate in below his cheekbone. he wiped out a few days ago at caballeros and the tip of the board hit him in the face, breaking the tip and hurting him badly. freak, nasty accidents happen to even the best surfers. and g is top notch. here's to a quick recovery for g., a quality guy.