i'm posting a link here to an interview with tim winton, a respected australian novelist, and lifelong surfer. the guy who interviewed him, tim baker, is a sharp writer and surfer himself. the interview is brilliant. winton captures the spirit of surfing perfectly in his thoughtful written responses. you can see it here...
by the way, i wholeheartedly agree with what he says about the pro circuit being about as interesting as golf. i find it incredibly boring and the surfing lacks real artistic expression, but that's how the logic of the big money machine works...
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