Wednesday, February 4, 2009


herradura is the most challenging break in lima. it only works with a big swell, and when it's on it's fast and powerful, crashing up against scary rocks. here are some photos of it on a calm day. i love living in a desert. the dry coast of peru means that you can drive for miles without seeing so much as a tree, yet the ocean is full of life, so full that whenever i surf, i get to see big fat pelicans gliding low over the water hunting for fish with their long beaks. and it helps to have a vehicle that can go off road to get to the most interesting beaches. the drive out to herradura is rough and rocky. it's a gorgeous place, herradura, but i've never surfed it. a friend of mine who has surfed for 20 years and is in excellent shape surfed there once, almost drowned, and never went back.

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