herradura is the most challenging break in lima. it only works with a big swell, and when it's on it's fast and powerful, crashing up against scary rocks. here are some photos of it on a calm day. i love living in a desert. the dry coast of peru means that you can drive for miles without seeing so much as a tree, yet the ocean is full of life, so full that whenever i surf, i get to see big fat pelicans gliding low over the water hunting for fish with their long beaks. and it helps to have a vehicle that can go off road to get to the most interesting beaches. the drive out to herradura is rough and rocky. it's a gorgeous place, herradura, but i've never surfed it. a friend of mine who has surfed for 20 years and is in excellent shape surfed there once, almost drowned, and never went back.
Wednesday, February 4, 2009
herradura
herradura is the most challenging break in lima. it only works with a big swell, and when it's on it's fast and powerful, crashing up against scary rocks. here are some photos of it on a calm day. i love living in a desert. the dry coast of peru means that you can drive for miles without seeing so much as a tree, yet the ocean is full of life, so full that whenever i surf, i get to see big fat pelicans gliding low over the water hunting for fish with their long beaks. and it helps to have a vehicle that can go off road to get to the most interesting beaches. the drive out to herradura is rough and rocky. it's a gorgeous place, herradura, but i've never surfed it. a friend of mine who has surfed for 20 years and is in excellent shape surfed there once, almost drowned, and never went back.
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