Friday, February 13, 2009
karma and surfing
pampilla broke nicely today and there were only a handful of people in the water, until two teenagers showed up, both of them snakes. a kid in a red shirt dropped in on me on a nice wave, but there was plenty of face to surf so i just stayed quiet and surfed behind him. no big deal, i thought and i realized later he didn't see me. then, another kid, in a green shirt dropped in on me (cut in front of me) on a garbage wave. i flashed him a dirty look but nothing more. he didn't get it. a couple of minutes later he dropped in on a mellow 65-year-old longboarder, who crashed, making the kid fall. gosh, i thought, he's cruisin' for a bruisin'. sure enough, 10 minutes later, he tried to smack the lip on a big wave and fell hard. then i saw him paddling to shore whincing in pain. he had slashed his foot on his fin. "serves you right man, you eat what you sow," i thought to myself. the surfing got better once the kid left, and i had one long run with a few big sweeping bottom turns, a couple of hits on the lip where i almost stalled out once, nice reentries and an ending that took me all the way to the shore. i stepped off in three inches of water, smiling proudly as the kid was cleaning his wound. only then did i realize he was a rich kid with an inflated sense of entitlement whose dad was waiting for him in the car and had driven him to the beach. "ahhhh, pobrecito!!!!!!!!!!!"