Saturday, February 14, 2009

redondo early

redondo was empty early saturday, so i jumped in there instead of waiting in the line up at the other breaks nearby. i was one of two people in the water. it was tempermental for the first hour, but worked almost perfectly from 8 to 9. tons of waves and easy to catch. i flailed around for the last bit, exhausted from 2.5 hours in the water, and i got worked a couple of times when i was low on gas, being too tired to paddle quickly or judge the breaks. but that's fine -- there are worse things i could have been doing, like cleaning out the porta potties.

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