Monday, February 9, 2009


i surfed pampilla today, which was just perfect at low tide this morning with 5.5 foot waves, sometimes 6.5 foot, streaming in one after another. the ocean was bursting with energy: little anchovas, glistening and silver, were popping up out of the water to feed and the sets streamed in non-stop. i was in the water a good 40 minutes before there was even a lull in the breaks. i managed to do some nice bottom turns today. on the second to last wave, which i caught after i got too far out in front of the line on an earlier wave, i forced myself to hold the line as the wave was walling up higher and higher, and just crouched down and muscled through it while it closed out. i tried to just shoot through it. what an intense feeling. holy smokes, i thought, that must be what it feels like just before you get into a barrel. surfing always brings new sensations, and opens up your imagination to
think about what else is possible.

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