Thursday, February 12, 2009


i surfed punta roquitas this morning. lots of work. the waves were high frequency, hitting square, and closing out quickly. i realized about 10 minutes into the paddle that i was too tired and sore after three days of surfing, and remembered too late that the biggest problem with the beach is that there's no easy paddle because it breaks everywhere, almost all at once, and that when it's big it's very demanding. well, it was bigger than advertised today. i got worked several times. mild stoke, and a few good rides made it worth it, but i should have gone to a different break. surfing has a way of reminding you that you always have to make good decisions, and this morning i was too groggy to even pick the right beach to go to. so, with that, i'll make a grumpy complaint. is it really necessary for surf instructors to show up with 20 students, cases of nasty soda, and an amplifier to blast reggaeton, all at 8:30 in the morning? dude, please show some restraint. or, in portuguese, "meu, deixa de ser um farofeiro, porra!"

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