Wednesday, February 11, 2009

split pea soup

pampilla was running at 6 feet this morning, fogged in so thickly that you couldn't make out landmarks to figure out where you were in the water, and you could only see at the last second where the waves would break. a bit crowded because it's summertime and the water is warmer than normal, but people were having fun and there were enough waves to go around. it was high tide and closing out, and i caught a rare left from a swell that came in from the south. it felt slow and steady with a nice groove.

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