Tuesday, February 10, 2009
i bounced out of bed today and was in the water by 6:30 am, but in my haste to catch waves like yesterday i forgot that the tide was still kind of high. that meant that i spent a lot of time chasing garbage until about 8 am, when the tide dropped and things started popping. most of the people in the water emptied out to try to get to work on time, which freed up space and finally i found the sweet spot. patience really does pay off in surfing, though i still make lots of stupid mistakes because i'm overly eager and chase things i shouldn't or drop in too late instead of duck diving. about 8 am, the waves started breaking nicely and i caught one after another for a good 40 minutes. unreal. i pulled off a couple of big bottom turns, and one time i went from a face, to dropping down to avoid a closeout, to maneuvering around a bunch of foam, to back up onto the face again. technically, it was probably one of the better waves i've surfed. i also tried to muscle through a close out like i did yesterday but the wave was too powerful and knocked me flat. even that felt good. when i was getting into the water, an old guy who looked to be about 70, was up on a wave that he'd caught far outside, and there he was, hooting it up in joy all the way to shore "yyyyeeeeeeeeeeeeeeaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa."