Sunday, February 22, 2009


i heard the word desordenado a lot this weekend. i went out early saturday, paddled for two hours straight and caught a few decent waves but rides were short because it was breaking all over the place, closing out, and swirling around like a whirlpool. part of the problem was that swells were arriving from the north and south, getting mixed up, running into each other, and just breaking too frequently to grab a nice, long wave. things were cleaner later in the day, and i watched some amazing rides down south at a beach called arica. big and fast with only two guys in the water. this morning it was, again, desordenado, or messy. i even went out to herradura, a fast left that i've never surfed, but it was barely working and the swell was already dropping. so that leaves early monday, when i hope to hit a beach south of lima. a friend told me over the weekend the waves are faster south of town. it was a satori moment, when i realized i've been in a comfort zone in lima for a few too many weeks now and need to drive myself down to some more challenging breaks, even if that means waking up before 5 a.m.

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