Thursday, February 5, 2009

punta roquitas

i woke up at 5 am to surf punta roquitas, the only place that was breaking this morning in lima. all the big web sites say peru has surf right now of 4.5 feet -- and they are all horribly wrong. not sure why. normally they are very accurate, but i don't think i've ever seen it so flat here. still, there were occasional good waves this morning, if you had patience, and i experienced a new feeling doing a bottom turn, driving down as hard as i could.

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