Wednesday, February 18, 2009

tricky and shifty

i surfed redondo this morning, which was nearly empty and breaking with 6 foot waves. very tricky, with the point shifting widely from left to right across a space of 40 yards, and the waves so high frequency that you had to be very selective or else paddle for a wave only to feel it turn into mushy slosh. i felt like i was playing a game of cat and mouse as the point shifted, and at least twice i got caught inside when big sets rolled in. but the waves i did catch were especially fun and peeled nicely down the line. and the water was cool, refreshing and energizing after a long day yesterday in the sticky summertime heat of downtown lima. and all my thoughts about errands i had to run and stuff i had to take care of disappeared in the lull of the water. i took photos this morning of the rocky bluffs of lima, which appear to be old pieces of exposed seafloor that crumble in earthquakes. the rocks then make their way over to the beach and limenos think of them as sand. the geology here is fascinating, and i imagine that the rocks originally washed down to the coast from the mountains in rivers before solidifying in big heaps.

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